How to Drop and Rebed the Keel

Keel bolts
For keel bolt tensions try calling TPI and see if they have the specs for the Torque for the keel bolts. Once tightened I would use locknuts over the tightening nuts. When we did my keel bolts the keel showed absolutely no signs of wanting to depart from the boat after loosening the bolts and lifting the boat. That 3m 5200 is pretty strong stuff. If you have not tightened the bolts it should be done, and then followed by a stub/keel rout out and glass over to fix the cracks between the stub and the lead.
Word of warning, on our boat there was a lot of junk filler in the stub, so much that we had to break it open from inside the boat, drag or cut it all out then refill with real filler and lots of F/G cloth. J/24's suffered from a similar problem.
Keel crack fix.
Grind the keel out around 1" + either side of the joint. Get hold of some biaxial carbon cloth and use about a 1-1/2" to 2 " wide strip. Bed it in nicely then fair over the top with an epoxy filler (try to avoid the feathering compound, its nice but leaves pin prick holes) sand it smooth and true, including longboarding, then paint over it with epoxy without filler. Sand then use Interprotect 2000 or an epoxy primer before bottom paint.
Its a whole weekend if you have enough warm weather, you will need to use heaters to keep the epoxy curing.

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